Author: Vy Nguyen

Although the market for organic products in France is stalling, the picture for organic wines remains generally positive. As the organic wine industry prepares to travel to Montpellier from 27 to 29 January 2025 for Millésime BIO this can only be good news.

Contents:

• Positive signals (almost) all round
• The conversation rate slows
• Organic winegrowers in positive spirit

Positive signals (almost) all round

Millésime BIO, the world’s largest exhibition for organic wines and alcoholic drinks, traditionally kicks off the trade events calendar. This year, it is due to be attended by 1,500 exhibitors and 11,000 visitors from 27 to 29 January, and the mood is expected to be relatively upbeat. In 2023, organic vineyard acreage rose by 1.6% in France, bucking the general trend for organic crops which declined for the first time according to Agence Bio. Totalling 171,265 hectares, France’s organic vineyards account for nearly 22% of total area under vine, versus just 6% in 2010. Another reason for satisfaction is that sales of organic wine in France are going against the general flow of the market for organic products, increasing both by volume (+6%) and value (+7%). The organic wine industry is worth 1.56 billion euros, over one third of which stems from exports, and continues to be buoyed by direct-to-consumer sales. Accounting for half of organic wines sold, the channel grew by 14.3% in value, with wine merchants rising by 12.4%. Only super/hypermarkets saw a decline in sales (-4.6%), mirroring a drop in the number of organic wine SKUs in the majority of stores.

The conversion rate slows

This overall growth, however, is not enough to offload extra output stemming from the surge in vineyard conversions between 2018 and 2020. Nevertheless, the imbalance may improve as acreage in the switch-over phase declines (-33.5% in 2023 compared with 2022). SudVinBio, the trade association for organic winegrowers in Occitanie and exhibition organisers, links the trend to two factors. Firstly, “the potential to convert vines mathematically decreases as more land is converted”, and also “the industry’s development has always alternated between phases of growth and slow-down in order to balance supply and demand in response to cyclical changes”. Despite this, hazardous weather, compounded by the economic crisis, is putting organic winegrowers through their paces, as exemplified by Château Saint-Loubert in Graves and Bordeaux. “In 2021, marked by significant frost and rain, we lost 90% of the crop. Then, in 2022, we suffered from drought and leafhoppers… Our first organically certified vintage in 2023 sold for the same price as conventionally farmed wines, despite the fact that the technical constraints and overheads are higher for certified farms”, says Agnès Garbay. For the past 20 years, she has helmed the family-owned property with her husband. Reluctantly, she had to throw in the towel. “Obviously, our customers are receptive to the endorsement and prepared to pay a little more for it, but for a small farm with cash-flow issues after three poor crops, waiting to see whether the organic treatment will work or not adds constant stress”.

Organic winegrowers in positive spirit

Undeniably, there are growers reverting back to conventional farming, but the general mood is not one of defeatism. “2024 is our first year of conversion and the first time we will be attending Millésime BIO, which proves that we believe in it”, says Madeleine Premmereur of Château Barbebelle in the Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence appellation area. The winery’s decision to sign up for the AB endorsement is primarily driven by “concerns about quality and the environment” more than sales. “This won’t be the silver bullet for regaining market shares, even though when faced with a choice between an organic and a conventional wine offering similar value for money, consumers will go for the first one”. The survey conducted by SudVinBio confirms the upbeat mood among exhibitors, with respondents saying they were more confident in the future of organic wines than in the future of wine in general. Their feelings were even stronger for the long term: 30.5% of surveyed winegrowers predict growth in the French market over the next ten years, compared with 20.5% over the next three years. And 40 % believe that organic wine consumption  will increase globally over the next decade, with the figure dropping to just 14% for conventional wine.

Florence Jaroniak. © : pxhere

Sources:

www.agencebio.org

www.millesime-bio.com

With sales of still wines remaining lacklustre, Crémants are in festive mood. As an affordable alternative to Champagne, the broad-ranging category is consolidating its quality and intends to secure fair pricing for its wines.

Contents:

• Record sales
• Affordability and variety
• Healthy competition
• Leveraging growth
• Moving upmarket

Record sales

Champagne may well reign supreme throughout the festive season, but it is no longer the only sparkling wine to grace dinner tables. “Alongside the connoisseurs who remain committed to the major Champagne brands, consumers looking for quality at lower prices are now turning to sparkling wines”, comments Olivier Leseul, at the Cep et Malt wine store in Chelles near Paris, who was voted France’s best wine merchant in 2024. “Pét-nats, though a niche market, are attracting interest from young consumers. But their style can take those used to traditional method sparkling wines by surprise and their price tags likewise”, adds Leseul. Conversely, “in the eyes of consumers, Crémant is in some ways second-division Champagne which also offers some real gems for 10 to 15 euros a bottle”. Not all sparkling wines are performing well, but Crémant can hold its head high. Sales of its eight appellations combined (Alsace, Bordeaux, Bourgogne, Die, Jura, Limoux, Loire and Savoie) totalled 108 million bottles in 2023 (+ 5.7 % year-on-year).

Affordability and variety

“Constant overall growth over the past decade illustrates how the word Crémant has become a driving force”, says a delighted Édouard Cassanet, representing the National Crémant Growers and Producers Federation (FNPEC). The latest monthly indicator for sales in super/hypermarkets confirms the trend, showing growth of 4 to 5% across-the-board since January 2024. Clearly, with pressure from inflation, everyone is mindful of their expenditure but the price factor does not tell the whole story. “Crémant offers a guarantee of quality, underpinned by its number of appellations”. The range of wine regions “piques consumers’ curiosity”. Also, “the pleasant fruity characters and accessibility of the product, along with alcohol content reined in at 11.5%” are all compelling features that resonate with today’s consumers.

Healthy competition

Should Crémant be concerned about competition, particularly from Prosecco which has witnessed a three-fold increase in production over the past 5 years to 616 million bottles in 2023? “Prosecco and Cava complement our range and have in fact broadened the variety of drinking occasions, fuelling consumers’ appetite for sparkling wines”, claims Cassanet. The same is true of English sparkling wines, whose growth has been stoked by investments from Champagne properties in wine regions located in the southern part of the country. “We also have nothing against plans to create PGI sparkling wines, provided their specifications are not opportunistic and do not undermine production rules”, adds Cassanet, who points to the advent of large firms on the Crémant market which have the kind of marketing clout that can benefit the industry.

Leveraging growth

Crémant is now recognised as a speciality that “conveys an image and promotes economic stability”. In the Loire Valley , its share of production has surged from 8.5 % to 17 % in a decade (InterLoire scope data). It is also gaining traction in wine regions that have traditionally focused primarily on still wines, like Bordeaux aux. “Admittedly, there is still room for growth to bolster certain volumes. The challenge above all is to maintain a balance between supply and demand”, believes Cassanet. In export markets, which account for 40% of total Crémant sales – spearheaded by Northern Europe and the United States – new horizons can continue to open up. There are just two clouds on that horizon: firstly, the full range of Crémant is still under-represented in wine merchants and the French hospitality industry.

Moving upmarket

Secondly, the average price tag for Crémant in multiple grocers is around €7 a bottle, which is identical to other sparkling wines that are not made using the traditional method. Therefore, the industry’s potential now lies in “fairer price points that better reflect production costs” stemming from hand-harvesting, secondary bottle fermentation, a minimum of twelve months’ maturation including nine on the lees and lees separation using disgorgement. Distinctive branding created in some regions – Eminent and Grand Eminent in Burgundy and Prestige de Loire for example – and the emergence of vintage labels, single-vineyard offerings, single varietals or wines that undergo lengthy maturation periods diversify the range and are already moving the category upmarket. Not to mention the site-designated bottlings. Since 2011, the Crémant Growers and Producers Organisation in Burgundy has asked for authorisation to append the statement to labels, in the same way that Champagne and Crémant de Loire do. INAO is due to examine this request at the next national committee meeting at the start of 2025. If the ruling is positive, the region could certainly not ask for a better Christmas present.

Florence Jaroniak, ©Volha_AdobeStock

Source: https://cremants.com

To find out more:

https://www.cava.wine/documents/582/DO_CAVA_GLOBAL_REPORT_2023_ENG.pdf

https://www.prosecco.wine/wp-content/uploads/2024/02/CS_04.01.2023_BILANCIO-2023.pdf

https://www.prosecco.it/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/Rapporto-Economico-2023.pdf

https://winegb.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/WineGB-Industry-Report-2022-23-FINAL-4.pdf

Poor weather has once again stymied global wine production, confirming the extent to which viticulture is at the mercy of climate change, and contingent upon the need to adapt.

Contents:

• A small crop
• Italy leads the way, while France drops back
• Climate change
• Coping through investment

A small crop

The 45^th International Vine and Wine Congress held in Dijon in October did not just witness the election of a new female chair at OIV (Yvette van der Merwe), or the celebration of the organisation’s centenary marked by a strategic plan for 2025-2029 combined with 13 resolutions. It also led the organisation to confirm everyone’s fears of a small 2024 crop. The global harvest has seemingly plummeted to one of its lowest levels for the past six decades, coming in at under 250 million hectolitres (mhl), according to a preliminary report based on the large producer countries that account for three-quarters of global production. Among them, some – which experienced particularly challenging conditions last year – have seen some improvement this year, although they remain below their long-term averages. Cases in point are Argentina and Australia in the Southern Hemisphere, alongside Italy and Spain in Europe.

Italy leads the way, while France drops back

With current harvest estimates of 41 mhl, the Italian wine industry has slightly recovered this year, though the overall figure belies the impact of extreme weather in some regions. Italy does though regain its ranking as the world’s leading producer country. In Spain, the national co-operative organisation is predicting a total crop of 37 mhl, up by 14.5% on 2023. The main drivers of the increase are Castilla-La Mancha and Extremadura, which posted average crops and managed to offset very low volumes along the eastern side of the country, once again affected by drought. Conversely, Chile and France were not so lucky. France’s production is likely to hit the 37 mhl mark, down 23% on last year and 17% on the five-year average. All the French wine regions were in a similar situation, with Jura particularly hard hit – this year’s harvest is a staggering 68% down on last year’s bumper crop. Losses are also significant in Burgundy-Beaujolais (-38%), Champagne (-46%), Charente and the Loire Valley. The main causes were excessive rainfall and/or drought, frost and hail, sometimes all of them in the same year.

Climate change

Admittedly, winegrowers are no strangers to harvest variations caused by nature. Over the past thirty years, however, global production has “fluctuated within a relatively constant range” according to OIV director Dr John Barker. “It is therefore quite significant that in 2023, it dropped below the lowest level in this range”. The chairman of the French independent winegrowers’ organisation, Jean-Marie Fabre, concurs: “In the era of my parents or my grandparents, bad weather would occur every twenty years. These years were referred to as a ‘winegrower’s vintage’ due to the skill, dedication and hard work required to unlock the full potential of the salvaged grapes. I am under the impression that nowadays, nature metes us out a winegrower’s vintage every year”. Some inventory and cash flow coupled with an occasional helping hand by the State would also iron out the impact of a lost crop and reconsolidate businesses. But times have changed and the present-day industry has to contend with a crippling multi-faceted crisis combined with now-recurrent hazardous weather.

Coping through investment

Although resistant grape varieties and a change in vineyard management techniques can lessen the impact of climate change, Fitou winegrower Fabre does not feel that “planting vines in Brittany will be enough to solve the problem because the region suffers from frost”. He is therefore advocating for a resilience plan based on a paradigm shift in mindset, where prevention is better than cure. “Instead of government help designed to compensate for damage after the event, why not support investments over two or three years that can protect vines from hail, frost and drought? Why not invest today to save money tomorrow and continue to generate value?” asks Fabre. There are solutions available: for frost, these range from heated cables, that can sometimes be run off photovoltaic panels, to sprinkler systems and frost fans. “Hail nets are also around 92% effective but they cost between 8,000 and 10,000 euros a hectare”, adds Fabre, who remains doggedly upbeat. “There have been vines in our country for over two millennia. Our winegrowing ancestors also experienced challenging times. And changes in wine consumption patterns are nothing new…”

Florence Jaroniak, ©: Pexels/Filipp Romanovski

For more information:

https://www.oiv.int/press/highlights-oiv-general-assembly

https://www.ismea.it/flex/cm/pages/ServeBLOB.php/L/IT/IDPagina/13111#:~:text=Quantit%C3%A0%20a%2041mln%20di%20hl,la%20scorsa%20annata%20ultra%2Dlight.

https://www.agro-alimentarias.coop/posts/cooperativas-agro-alimentarias-estima-una-vendimia-de-37-millones-de-hl

https:/agreste.agriculture.gouv.fr/agreste-web/disaron/IraVit24124/detail/

www.wineaustralia.com/getmedia/b3576546-f5b7-4210-b936-0460b618bd41/MI_VintageReport2024_F.pdf

https://bit.ly/2024HarvestReport

https://www.nzwine.com/en/media/statistics-reports/nzw-annual-report

Forty localities situated in the Lozère part of the Cevennes mountains have been incorporated into IGP Cévennes. Their high-elevation sites and amazing grape varieties open up whole new perspectives.

Contents:

• Historical legitimacy
• A win-win situation
• A wide array of grape varieties
• Heirloom cultivars
• Trellises and terraces
• Environment and communications

Historical legitimacy

The ministerial order came into effect for the 2024 grape harvest: IGP Cévennes has extended its production footprint to include villages located in the Lozère part of the Cevennes. “When production specifications were drafted in 2008, the IGP was limited to villages in Gard whereas according to written documents dating back to Louis XIV, the Cevennes formed a specific entity which went as far as the slopes of the namesake mountain range”, recounts Jérôme Villaret, the project manager for IGP Cévennes. The extension, promoted primarily by the former chairman of the producers’ organisation, Christian Vigne, “rectifies an omission which was heresy”, claims his successor, Christel Guiraud. Admittedly, compared with its significantly larger Gard sibling – where 80 wineries produce an average 70,000 to 80,000 hectolitres annually – up-and-coming Lozère is still a minnow region with a dozen or so producers… for now. Combining the two areas, however, benefits both.

A win-win situation

Some will be able to take advantage of the IGP’s marketing clout and enhanced visibility for their wines by leveraging awareness of the Cevennes name, coupled with a national park that epitomises unspoilt natural surroundings and welcomes two million visitors a year*. For others, the high-elevation vineyard sites that can cope with climate change and boast great potential are a real bonus. “Some winegrowers are even starting to plant vines at 700 metres above sea level on schist and granite soils that in some ways can be likened to those of Faugères and the upper Terrasses du Larzac area”, stresses Villaret. “They are also very motivated by issues like heritage grape varieties”, adds Guiraud.

A wide array of grape varieties

Production specifications permit 97 grape varieties and already offer winegrowers the opportunity to plant classic varietals that thrive on cool soils, like Syrah, Pinot and Chardonnay, resistant grapes such as Soreli and Floréal and also heirloom grape varieties  like Counoise, Terret blanc and Morrastel. These once late-ripening varieties now ripen effortlessly. “In the 1960s, the Lozère part of the Cévennes was also home to 30% of banned grape varieties – these hybrids were imported from North America to combat phylloxera and then prohibited in 1934. They survived thanks to the rebelllious personnality of the Lozère people, a lack of understanding of the rules in remote areas and because they were naturally resistant to disease and spring frosts”, explains Villaret.

Heirloom cultivars

Once maligned, the varieties are now recognised as being less tannic, lighter and more aromatic than most wines made from Vitis Vinifera vines. Their style may well act as a magnet for a new generation of consumers. “First of all, we need to gain a better understanding of them and their needs in terms of good vineyard and winemaking practices to ensure they make worthwhile wines. This is the purpose of the observatory launched in 2023 to identify the vines. A small-batch winemaking trial for single varietals will lead to an initial tasting in February 2025. If their potential is confirmed, we will continue our fight to secure permission for these varieties to be included in the national varietal catalogue”. The initiative also involves old, forgotten varieties like Négret de la Canourgue, an endemic Vitis Vinifera grape. One winegrower in Aujac, Gard, has even discovered a variety that Montpellier ampelographers are unfamiliar with – he has named it Aujaguais.

Trellises and terraces

“At a time when six grape varieties account for 70% of global production, and faced with global warming, Cevennes winegrowers have fantastic potential which will also create a point of difference for the wines by telling a story”, stresses Villaret. In Lozère, in 1960, myriad small farms grew a variety of crops and farmed nearly 1,000 hectares of vines for family wine consumption or for miners in the Alès region. “The vines were planted on terraces or bancels**, on chestnut wood trellises with vegetables beneath them to save land. Hence the decision by some winegrowers to resurrect banned grape varieties because they are suited to this type of farming. This also explains the decision to conduct a programme of experiments with the Upper Cevennes Valley organisation to assess the best type of farming on these terraces”.

Environment and communications

This is not the only focus of attention for the producers’ organisation. “Starting in 2027, 100% of IGP Cévennes wines will have to be either  organic or certified HVE – 90% of properties already subscribe to this approach”, announces Guiraud. Winegrowers have also signed up to a GIEE, or economic and environmental interest group which charts the course for agro-environmental good practice, from grass cover in the vineyards to planting hedgerows. 

IGP Cévennes is also aiming to secure awareness and recognition outside the region, or even beyond national borders, with its new communications programme. The drive features a more modern website, the support of renowned influencers and patrons and publication of a gourmet food booklet. So if you haven’t heard of the endorsement yet, you soon will!

Florence Jaroniak. ©IGP Cévennes

*Source: Atout France, 2018.

**Relatively narrow terraces supported by dry-stone walls.

To find out more, visit www.vinsdescevennes.com

Forty localities situated in the Lozère part of the Cevennes mountains have been incorporated into IGP Cévennes. Their high-elevation sites and amazing grape varieties open up whole new perspectives.

Contents:

• Historical legitimacy
• A win-win situation
• A wide array of grape varieties
• Heirloom cultivars
• Trellises and terraces
• Environment and communications

Historical legitimacy

The ministerial order came into effect for the 2024 grape harvest: IGP Cévennes has extended its production footprint to include villages located in the Lozère part of the Cevennes. “When production specifications were drafted in 2008, the IGP was limited to villages in Gard whereas according to written documents dating back to Louis XIV, the Cevennes formed a specific entity which went as far as the slopes of the namesake mountain range”, recounts Jérôme Villaret, the project manager for IGP Cévennes. The extension, promoted primarily by the former chairman of the producers’ organisation, Christian Vigne, “rectifies an omission which was heresy”, claims his successor, Christel Guiraud. Admittedly, compared with its significantly larger Gard sibling – where 80 wineries produce an average 70,000 to 80,000 hectolitres annually – up-and-coming Lozère is still a minnow region with a dozen or so producers… for now. Combining the two areas, however, benefits both.

A win-win situation

Some will be able to take advantage of the IGP’s marketing clout and enhanced visibility for their wines by leveraging awareness of the Cevennes name, coupled with a national park that epitomises unspoilt natural surroundings and welcomes two million visitors a year*. For others, the high-elevation vineyard sites that can cope with climate change and boast great potential are a real bonus. “Some winegrowers are even starting to plant vines at 700 metres above sea level on schist and granite soils that in some ways can be likened to those of Faugères and the upper Terrasses du Larzac area”, stresses Villaret. “They are also very motivated by issues like heritage grape varieties”, adds Guiraud.

A wide array of grape varieties

Production specifications permit 97 grape varieties and already offer winegrowers the opportunity to plant classic varietals that thrive on cool soils, like Syrah, Pinot and Chardonnay, resistant grapes such as Soreli and Floréal and also heirloom grape varieties  like Counoise, Terret blanc and Morrastel. These once late-ripening varieties now ripen effortlessly. “In the 1960s, the Lozère part of the Cévennes was also home to 30% of banned grape varieties – these hybrids were imported from North America to combat phylloxera and then prohibited in 1934. They survived thanks to the rebelllious personnality of the Lozère people, a lack of understanding of the rules in remote areas and because they were naturally resistant to disease and spring frosts”, explains Villaret.

Heirloom cultivars

Once maligned, the varieties are now recognised as being less tannic, lighter and more aromatic than most wines made from Vitis Vinifera vines. Their style may well act as a magnet for a new generation of consumers. “First of all, we need to gain a better understanding of them and their needs in terms of good vineyard and winemaking practices to ensure they make worthwhile wines. This is the purpose of the observatory launched in 2023 to identify the vines. A small-batch winemaking trial for single varietals will lead to an initial tasting in February 2025. If their potential is confirmed, we will continue our fight to secure permission for these varieties to be included in the national varietal catalogue”. The initiative also involves old, forgotten varieties like Négret de la Canourgue, an endemic Vitis Vinifera grape. One winegrower in Aujac, Gard, has even discovered a variety that Montpellier ampelographers are unfamiliar with – he has named it Aujaguais.

Trellises and terraces

“At a time when six grape varieties account for 70% of global production, and faced with global warming, Cevennes winegrowers have fantastic potential which will also create a point of difference for the wines by telling a story”, stresses Villaret. In Lozère, in 1960, myriad small farms grew a variety of crops and farmed nearly 1,000 hectares of vines for family wine consumption or for miners in the Alès region. “The vines were planted on terraces or bancels**, on chestnut wood trellises with vegetables beneath them to save land. Hence the decision by some winegrowers to resurrect banned grape varieties because they are suited to this type of farming. This also explains the decision to conduct a programme of experiments with the Upper Cevennes Valley organisation to assess the best type of farming on these terraces”.

Environment and communications

This is not the only focus of attention for the producers’ organisation. “Starting in 2027, 100% of IGP Cévennes wines will have to be either  organic or certified HVE – 90% of properties already subscribe to this approach”, announces Guiraud. Winegrowers have also signed up to a GIEE, or economic and environmental interest group which charts the course for agro-environmental good practice, from grass cover in the vineyards to planting hedgerows. 

IGP Cévennes is also aiming to secure awareness and recognition outside the region, or even beyond national borders, with its new communications programme. The drive features a more modern website, the support of renowned influencers and patrons and publication of a gourmet food booklet. So if you haven’t heard of the endorsement yet, you soon will!

Florence Jaroniak © IGP Cévennes

*Source: Atout France, 2018.

**Relatively narrow terraces supported by dry-stone walls.

To find out more, visit www.vinsdescevennes.com

The glass industry is using a range of processes – including less energy-intensive techniques, increased recycling and slimmed down bottles – to reduce its carbon footprint. The wine industry is reaping the benefits too.  

Contents: 

• A well-charted roadmap 

• Enter low-carbon energy 

• Cullet is king 

• Ramping up circularity 

• Featherweight bottles 

A well-charted roadmap 

Packaging is currently the source of 30 to 40% of carbon emissions in the wine industry. But not for much longer. Flagging up the profound changes that are gaining momentum, the French Glass Industry Federation (FIV) issued in short succession its decarbonisation roadmap to the Ministry of Industry and a Sector Transition Plan drafted with ADEME*. As FIV chairman Jacques Bordat stressed last July: “Glass manufacturers have made a pledge and going forward are investing in measures and plans to decarbonise production”. Verallia, Europe’s leading producer of glass packaging for drinks and food products, in fact defined its strategy in 2020. Its aim is to reduce its CO₂ emissions by 46% by 2030 compared with 2019 (scopes 1 and 2)**, initially by innovating in fusion technology. 

Enter low-carbon energy 

“Most greenhouse gases produced by glass manufacturers are generated by the production process”, explains Marie-Astrid Gossé, Verallia Group’s marketing director. “That’s why we introduced an electric furnace in our Cognac facilities in March 2024, which reduces our carbon footprint by 60% compared with a traditional furnace which mainly runs on gas”. Construction of hybrid furnaces – 80% electricity/20% gas – is based on the same rationale. American company O-I Glass injected around 65 million dollars into its Veauche (Loire) facilities to equip one of its furnaces with this technology and a heat recovery and air preheating system by 2025. The first hybrid Verallia furnace is due to go on-stream in 2025 in Zaragoza Spain followed by Saint-Romain Le-Puy (Loire) in France in 2026. The Tourres & Cie facilities belonging to Saverglass in Le Havre (Seine-Maritime) will be similarly equipped in 2027. 

Cullet is king 

Also, rather than tap into natural resources, glass manufacturers now primarily use cullet, or glass debris from the recycling process. “Ten additional points of cullet in furnaces reduces CO₂ emissions by 5% and energy usage by 2.5%”, stresses Gossé. “However, availability of cullet varies depending on the region, which implies improving collection of waste glass”. Verallia is thus investing in its 19 cullet treatment centres in eight countries, mainly to improve optical sorting and thereby optimise the quality of the cullet injected back into the furnaces.  

Ramping up circularity 

Re-use is another way of developing circularity for glass packaging. As Verallia’s head of marketing says, “In a mature system, re-use after reconditioning can lead to a four-fold reduction in energy usage and CO2 emissions of glass bottles”. The rationale is borne out by the fact that glass seems to have been designed for this very purpose. “Glass packaging is 100% recyclable and can be endlessly recycled. It is easy to re-use because it contains one ingredient, is inert and transparent. It is also robust and can withstand cleaning”. Marie-Astrid Gossé is in no doubt that “in addition to continued efforts on this aspect, deposit-return schemes will create opportunities for glass, provided an entire ecosystem can be re-created”. Irrespective of whether they are single use or re-usable, glass containers are ultimately recycled into new packaging – the collection rate in Europe is 80.2%. 

Featherweight bottles 

The final aspect that can be leveraged is eco-design. “On top of environmental imperatives, a lot of wineries are mindful to lighten their packaging, particularly for export markets. Monopolies like the SAQ in Canada and Systembolaget in Sweden have set a maximum threshold for bottle weight”, stresses Gossé. Consequently, new, lighter ranges are regularly developed, whilst retaining the technical and aesthetic features of the initial bottles. The induced reduction in terms of carbon footprint benefits the entire value chain, including transportation. “The process does, however, require the use of cutting-edge modelling to estimate optimal glass distribution for lighter alternatives with advanced monitoring systems on production lines then tests to ensure the bottles are totally resilient”. In July 2024, Verallia validated tests on its Ecova 2 Champagne bottle in conjunction with Maison Telmont. The bottle weighs 800 grams, which is 35 less than the previous version and 100 compared with the conventional model. The difference is invisible to the naked eye but very noticeable for the environment. 

Florence Jaroniak, translate by Sharon Nagel © Adobestock

*ADEME: the French agency for the environment and energy management. 

**Scope 1 refers to greenhouse gas emissions stemming directly from a company’s business; Scope 2 covers indirect energy-induced emissions produced outside the company’s facilities.   

Sources:

https://www.adelphe.fr/mieux-nous-connaitre/actualites/plans-prevention-deco-conception

https://www.entreprises.gouv.fr/files/files/enjeux/d%C3%A9carbonation/feuille-de-route-verre.pdf

https://investors.o-i.com/News-Events/news/news-details/2024/O-I-Glass-to-Invest-65-Million-in-Electrification-and-Decarbonization-in-Veauche-France/default.aspx

Both its aesthetic and environmental value has long been recognised. Dry-stone construction, which fell into disuse for many years, is now back on the long road to recovery among wineries, driven by both collective and individual initiatives.

Contents:

• Multi-tasking heritage
• From financial support to training
• Revival is well underway

Multi-tasking heritage

Imagine the vineyards of Côte-Rôtie, the Vermillion Coast, the Douro Valley in Portugal or Lavaux in Switzerland, without their terraces. They would lose their inherent identity, and so much more. That’s because dry-stone walls, which allow vines to be grown on steep inclines and also establish boundaries between vine blocks, are not just an attractive part of the scenery. They also fulfil a present-day environmental role: they regulate temperatures, help combat soil erosion and the risk of fires, contribute to water management and provide a refuge for biodiversity… Alas, these structures built over hundreds of years, with no binding agents or  steel reinforcement, are often in a state of disrepair or have been hastily restored, potentially undermining their heritage value and their functions. This realisation led the  Burgundy Wine Region ‘Climats’ Association to pioneer a support scheme for restoring small stone structures – low walls, ‘cabottes’ or huts, entrances to walled vineyards … “It all started with the Climat listing as World Heritage in July 2015. By recognising both a unique model of winegrowing and all the constituents of its landscape, UNESCO drew attention to a distinctive landscape feature and the need to protect it”, recounts Nathalie Hordonneau-Fouquet, head of Heritage and Mediation for the association, which has identified over 220 kilometres of walls within the region.

From financial support to training

“The inventory made us realise that land owners had no resources for properly restoring this heritage, due to a lack of awareness about its role and specific public help”. A fund was thus established, receiving contributions through a successful initial collection at international level. Admittedly, the materials themselves are often retrieved on site, but the building work is expensive: “It costs around 25 to 30% more than modern-day building techniques. The work itself, though, is not as onerous”. In six years, the number of public and private projects that have received support within the boundaries of the listed area has increased from around twenty to 240. They total 7.5 million euros worth of work, 3 million of which was funded through the scheme. “Concurrently with this, we raise awareness among land owners during events, workshops and courses through a partnership arrangement with the CFPPA* in Beaune. One module on the curriculum provides the basics for future employees and farmers to be able to maintain the structures on a regular basis”, adds Hordonneau-Fouquet. As part of this, the projects have rekindled a craft that was dying out – it too is now recognised by UNESCO. The region is home to three specialist companies, compared with a single wall builder in 2018. The work continues with other associations via the Bourgogne Franche-Comté regional council and is aimed at rolling out joint activities and securing European funding. There is also State collaboration to introduce listed sites as per the 1930 landscape bill.

Revival is well underway

There is certainly plenty left to do but the wheels are now in motion. Contributors include Florence Monmousseau who bought La Grange De Bouys in Roujan, Hérault, in 2010. “The hundreds of metres of walls supporting the hillsides were hidden beneath the vegetation. When I discovered their condition, I decided to train with the Dry Stone Heritage Protection association in Faugères, then in a more professional capacity with the Languedoc Wall Builders”. Consequently, Monmousseau was able to restore much of this legacy, but has also created steps and pathways between the vineyard blocks. Her passion is such that she ultimately joined the French Federation of Dry Stone Professionals and is always willing to spread the word among other wineries. “There is financial help and training is available if you look for it, particularly through the national parks. You also shouldn’t be afraid to roll up your sleeves and get your hands dirty”, stresses Monmousseau. The rewards certainly make the effort worthwhile: “One stone after another, we’re all-set for another 50 years with a wall that is so much more resilient than with concrete!”

Florence Jaroniak, ©Association des Climats-PM

*Agricultural Vocational Training and Promotion Centre

Useful links:

French Federation of Dry Stone Professionals : https://www.professionnels-pierre-seche.com

Burgundy Wine Region Climats / dedicated scheme: https://www.climats-bourgogne.com/fr/dispositif_638.html

A map of dry-stone initiatives in the South of France

S.P.S (international network) : http://pierreseche-international.org/

Coming in a variety of shapes and sizes – from spending a night at the winery to taking part in harvesting or indulging in some food and wine pairing workshops – wine tourism is enjoying sustained success, with plenty of room left to grow. Provided that is, you know how to structure and promote your proposition so that it can go the distance.

Contents

• How significant is wine tourism in France?
• What is the point of developing wine tourism activities?
• How can you make a success of it?
• What are the benefits of working as part of a network?

How significant is wine tourism in France?

How ironic is it that the first French wine route emerged in Burgundy in 1937, but wine tourism actually established a home for itself in California in the 1970s. Subsequently, it would chart its course through the wineries of the New World, before reaching Europe, a decade later… According to Atout France, the country’s national tourism development agency, France now hosts 10 million wine tourists annually, 42% of them from abroad, who spend 5.2 billion euros. The figures date back to 2016 and have not been updated in the interim, but the momentum continues. “Due to the groundwork conducted by institutional organisations over the past 20 years, Bordeaux has climbed the ranks to become one of the world’s major wine tourism destinations”, recounts Catherine Leparmentier Dayot, managing director of the Great Wine Capitals network*. “And yet, originally, wineries did not see the point of opening to the public because they sold their wines through the Bordeaux wine trade and not at the cellar door”.

What is the point of developing wine tourism activities?

Every wine region has now jumped on the bandwagon, in some respects forced to do so due to the industry crisis. The rationale is undeniably sound: this type of tourism boosts cellar door sales and offers a different source of income, one that is less contingent upon hazardous weather, unlike winegrowing. On average, a winery increases its revenue by 20% by offering wine tourism services. More importantly, it provides winegrowers with a formidable marketing tool which guarantees a direct, and instructive, contact with consumers and the promise of enhanced awareness. “When visitors leave with good memories, they will tend to choose your brand when they encounter it in restaurants or at wine merchants”, stresses Leparmentier Dayot. There is a small caveat, however: “A tour followed by a tasting is not enough. For the business model to work, you cannot only address wine enthusiasts, you also have to speak to tourists. And tourists want to enjoy memorable experiences”.

How can you make a success of it?

This is where imagination comes in. From theme days to the whole package – accommodation, catering and events – everyone makes their own choices based on their objectives and their abilities. A few principles should be followed however to stack the odds in your favour. Firstly, the quality of the service is the key to success and ranges from keeping to opening times to properly training staff.  “The offer does not necessarily need to be extensive but it needs to stand out and include a food aspect because that is part of what people expect in terms of enjoyment – a cheese and wine workshop is one example. Also, regularly hosting events is a way of getting local customers to return over and over again, often during the week and out of season”, adds Leparmentier Dayot. Ultimately, these newly-designed activities are a second job that requires time and money. Before investing “market research is essential to ascertain customers’ expectations, existing propositions and rates charged and to think about your positioning”.

What are the benefits of working as part of a network?

Once the offer has been established it then needs to be publicised via “an efficient, well-referenced website that needs to be bilingual at least and active presence on social media, where you need to be mindful of your e-reputation”, claims the expert. And because strength comes in numbers, connecting with marketing boards, producers’ organisations, chambers of agriculture and commerce, county, regional and local tourist information boards and other service providers is also pivotal to marketing and promotion. Joining certain schemes also boosts the effectiveness of networking – these include the ‘Vignobles & Découvertes’ endorsement by Atout France and competitions like the Best of Wine Tourism. Another way to boost sales is through “specialised online booking platforms and incoming agencies which are useful relays for reaching out to new customer audiences, particularly internationally”, concludes Leparmentier Dayot. The rest is up to you!

Florence Jaroniak,© pexels Sama Bairamova

*Established in 1999 by the Bordeaux Gironde CCI, the Great Wine Capitals Global Network aims to promote conversations among its members on trade, tourism and education. It organises the Best of Wine Tourism competition which every year awards the properties and service providers that offer unique, quality wine tourism solutions.

Bibliography (available as free downloads on the Atout France website):

https://www.atout-france.fr/fr/catalogue/etudes-publications/tourisme-et-vin-reussir-la-mise-en-marche

https://www.atout-france.fr/fr/catalogue/rendez-vous/imex-america-2023

The guarantee of a healthier lifestyle for consumers and source of diversification for producers, de-alcoholised product ranges are becoming a full-fledged market segment. With regulatory changes acting as a catalyst, wines with quality endorsements are a part of current thinking about the topic.

Contents:

• Unbridled growth
• Alternative choices…
• … And a move upmarket
• Terroir-driven wines?
• In the experimental stages

Unbridalled growth

The writing is on the wall. The first trade exhibition for de-alcoholised wines was held on 11 February 2024, the day before Wine Paris which hosted 50% more exhibitors in the No/Low category than last year. In 2023, 29 % of French people stated they drank alcohol-free or low-alcohol beverages, rising to 45% of 18-25 year-olds. Similarly, projections suggest there will be a substantial increase in sales within the category over the next few years. According to the American agency Fact.mr, the global market for de-alcoholised wines could reach 5.2 billion dollars by 2033, compared with 2 billion in 2022.

Alternative choices…

But who are these zero-alcohol (or almost) devotees? “Alongside those who abstain for medical or religious reasons or because they don’t like the taste, two thirds of our customers are flexi-drinkers”, shares Augustin Laborde, the founder of Le Paon Qui Boit’, the first alcohol-free concept wine store that launched in Paris in April 2022. Aged between 30 to 40 or senior citizens, they “want to continue to drink alcohol, but not every day and are looking for good quality, unusual substitutes that they will take pleasure in sharing with friends”, adds Laborde. Whereas two years ago he struggled to find products to list, now he is seeing samples flood in every day.

… And a move upmarket

Top wineries have jumped on the bandwagon, like Château La Coste, Château Clos de Boüard and Château Edmus. “Reference to renowned wine regions like Saint-Emilion reassures consumers”, stresses Laborde who has also noticed that “techniques have come along in leaps and bounds, even though their uniqueness makes de-alcoholised products more expensive to produce”. The result is “better crafted wines, with less sugar and more finesse, and even a little length on the palate” which are deliberately closed with cork stoppers to underscore their quality. However, although low-alcohol products “have similar cues to wine and certain aromas”, that’s where the resemblance ends, “especially for the reds”. To avoid any disappointments, Laborde therefore constantly reminds enthusiasts “that they must taste and not compare”.

Terroir-driven wines?

As the wine industry has become more organised by launching the NO/LOW wine collective and European regulations now permit partial de-alcoholisation for wines carrying an official quality and origin endorsement, the PGI wine committee at INAO has come down in favour of this option for wines as low as 6% ABV. This might suggest that AOCs could take the plunge…  “Would this undermine the style of the wine and its connection to terroir or not? What is the level of acceptability for the process among consumers of AOC wines? It’s difficult to answer these questions due to the lack of existing products”, claims Christian Paly, chairman of the appellation wine board at INAO. Additionally, introducing the possibility within the AOC space would imply “the complicated co-existence of two types of labelling”.

In the experimental stages

Despite this, missing the boat is not an option. In order to make informed decisions before positioning itself, the national board at INAO has decided to provide regional appellations that want to analyse the issue with a technical framework for experimentation. Côtes du Rhône have already signed up for it. Concurrently with this, the board commissioned France Agrimer to conduct prospective research into de-alcoholised AOC wines. Christian Paly warns: “Until we have conclusive answers to our questions, we will not be introducing de-alcoholisation into production specifications”. The message couldn’t be clearer.

Florence Jaroniak.

©_Nikola Spasenoski/AdobeStock

Sources :

As warm, sunny days return they usher in rosé wines, which remain as popular as ever. After a slight slowdown, the global market is showing signs of bouncing back. New areas of growth have emerged, whilst the appellations of Provence continue to make inroads in the premium segment.

Contents:

• Dynamic consumption trends and geographical renewal
• The grapes of growth
• Provence rosé, the chic version

Dynamic consumption trends and geographical renewal

The good news is that rosé is back in the pink of condition. “After two years of decline, rosé consumption gained 0.5 point between 2021 and 2022, reaching 19.6 million hectolitres globally”, comments Brice Amato, head of the economy and research department at the Provence wine marketing board (CIVP). This “goes against the tide for still wines across-the-board which dropped by 2.6% over the same period and 11.1% over a decade, versus a 1.8% increase for rosé”. According to the Global Rosé Observatory*, the main, mature consumer countries are witnessing a drop in volumes, with the exception of South Africa. Conversely, the fall posted in 2021 by France (which remains the undisputed leader) and the United States has lessened. “With annual per capita consumption of 1 litre of rosé, growth is still possible in the American market, which is moving away from sweet, high-alcohol blush wines in favour of dry, light-coloured rosés”, stresses Amato. Also, several countries like Canada have returned to growth mode. The major trend in 2022 though is geographical diversification with small or moderate consumer countries entering the fray. These are located in Central and Eastern Europe, spearheaded by Romania, and Asia-Oceania.

The grapes of growth

But why the popularity? Rosé is simple to understand and has successfully adapted to a number of drinking occasions and lighter meals, that can include international cuisine. There is a style to suit everyone’s tastes due to the array of grape varieties, vineyard sites and winemaking methods. And rosé is always the ideal companion for picnics and summer pre-dinner drinks, making its way onto restaurant wine lists, even in the winter. A case in point is the ‘Grain de Glace’ label released in 2009 by the Maîtres Vignerons de la Presqu’île de Saint-Tropez. It has also established its pedigree by honing the approach to winemaking techniques, with temperature control, a better choice of yeasts and oxygen management for instance, not to mention a range of barrel-aged offerings and some bottlings offering ageability. This quantum leap in quality has been helped by the 18 Provence Grands Crus, whose classification dates back to 1955. Another major contributor has been the Research and Experimentation Centre established in Vidauban (Var) in 1999.

Provence rosé, the chic version

This move upmarket has been fuelled by the differentiation afforded by ‘signature’ bottles and innovative packaging which boost rosé’s appeal and its lifestyle aspect, both of which have been widely staged on social media. In fact, in 2023, the CIVP decided to target US rosé-quaffing Millennials via a new advertising campaign. Rosé’s premium international positioning was able to draw on renowned ambassadors of the style or celebrities that have invested in it. Sacha Lichine set the tone in 2006 when he sold Prieuré-Lichine to buy Château d’Esclans and transformed it into a luxury product. Since then, others have followed in his wake – the likes of Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie, Tony Parker, George Lucas, George Clooney, Ridley Scott and Kylie Minogue. Mirroring LVMH, large corporations have also extended their Provencal footprint. On 22 April 2024, Pernod Ricard announced it had signed an agreement to buy Domaine Aux Terres de Ravel with the intention of expanding premium labels by Château Sainte-Marguerite, which it owns with the Fayard family. Another milestone in the pink gold rush!

Florence Jaroniak.©_Laurentiu lordache/Adobestock

*The Global Rosé Observatory was founded in 2002 by the Provence wine marketing board CIVP and FranceAgriMer with IWSR-Wine Intelligence. Its latest findings will be available at the end of June or beginning of July.