Author: Vy Nguyen

Both its aesthetic and environmental value has long been recognised. Dry-stone construction, which fell into disuse for many years, is now back on the long road to recovery among wineries, driven by both collective and individual initiatives.

Contents:

• Multi-tasking heritage
• From financial support to training
• Revival is well underway

Multi-tasking heritage

Imagine the vineyards of Côte-Rôtie, the Vermillion Coast, the Douro Valley in Portugal or Lavaux in Switzerland, without their terraces. They would lose their inherent identity, and so much more. That’s because dry-stone walls, which allow vines to be grown on steep inclines and also establish boundaries between vine blocks, are not just an attractive part of the scenery. They also fulfil a present-day environmental role: they regulate temperatures, help combat soil erosion and the risk of fires, contribute to water management and provide a refuge for biodiversity… Alas, these structures built over hundreds of years, with no binding agents or  steel reinforcement, are often in a state of disrepair or have been hastily restored, potentially undermining their heritage value and their functions. This realisation led the  Burgundy Wine Region ‘Climats’ Association to pioneer a support scheme for restoring small stone structures – low walls, ‘cabottes’ or huts, entrances to walled vineyards … “It all started with the Climat listing as World Heritage in July 2015. By recognising both a unique model of winegrowing and all the constituents of its landscape, UNESCO drew attention to a distinctive landscape feature and the need to protect it”, recounts Nathalie Hordonneau-Fouquet, head of Heritage and Mediation for the association, which has identified over 220 kilometres of walls within the region.

From financial support to training

“The inventory made us realise that land owners had no resources for properly restoring this heritage, due to a lack of awareness about its role and specific public help”. A fund was thus established, receiving contributions through a successful initial collection at international level. Admittedly, the materials themselves are often retrieved on site, but the building work is expensive: “It costs around 25 to 30% more than modern-day building techniques. The work itself, though, is not as onerous”. In six years, the number of public and private projects that have received support within the boundaries of the listed area has increased from around twenty to 240. They total 7.5 million euros worth of work, 3 million of which was funded through the scheme. “Concurrently with this, we raise awareness among land owners during events, workshops and courses through a partnership arrangement with the CFPPA* in Beaune. One module on the curriculum provides the basics for future employees and farmers to be able to maintain the structures on a regular basis”, adds Hordonneau-Fouquet. As part of this, the projects have rekindled a craft that was dying out – it too is now recognised by UNESCO. The region is home to three specialist companies, compared with a single wall builder in 2018. The work continues with other associations via the Bourgogne Franche-Comté regional council and is aimed at rolling out joint activities and securing European funding. There is also State collaboration to introduce listed sites as per the 1930 landscape bill.

Revival is well underway

There is certainly plenty left to do but the wheels are now in motion. Contributors include Florence Monmousseau who bought La Grange De Bouys in Roujan, Hérault, in 2010. “The hundreds of metres of walls supporting the hillsides were hidden beneath the vegetation. When I discovered their condition, I decided to train with the Dry Stone Heritage Protection association in Faugères, then in a more professional capacity with the Languedoc Wall Builders”. Consequently, Monmousseau was able to restore much of this legacy, but has also created steps and pathways between the vineyard blocks. Her passion is such that she ultimately joined the French Federation of Dry Stone Professionals and is always willing to spread the word among other wineries. “There is financial help and training is available if you look for it, particularly through the national parks. You also shouldn’t be afraid to roll up your sleeves and get your hands dirty”, stresses Monmousseau. The rewards certainly make the effort worthwhile: “One stone after another, we’re all-set for another 50 years with a wall that is so much more resilient than with concrete!”

Florence Jaroniak, ©Association des Climats-PM

*Agricultural Vocational Training and Promotion Centre

Useful links:

French Federation of Dry Stone Professionals : https://www.professionnels-pierre-seche.com

Burgundy Wine Region Climats / dedicated scheme: https://www.climats-bourgogne.com/fr/dispositif_638.html

A map of dry-stone initiatives in the South of France

S.P.S (international network) : http://pierreseche-international.org/

Coming in a variety of shapes and sizes – from spending a night at the winery to taking part in harvesting or indulging in some food and wine pairing workshops – wine tourism is enjoying sustained success, with plenty of room left to grow. Provided that is, you know how to structure and promote your proposition so that it can go the distance.

Contents

• How significant is wine tourism in France?
• What is the point of developing wine tourism activities?
• How can you make a success of it?
• What are the benefits of working as part of a network?

How significant is wine tourism in France?

How ironic is it that the first French wine route emerged in Burgundy in 1937, but wine tourism actually established a home for itself in California in the 1970s. Subsequently, it would chart its course through the wineries of the New World, before reaching Europe, a decade later… According to Atout France, the country’s national tourism development agency, France now hosts 10 million wine tourists annually, 42% of them from abroad, who spend 5.2 billion euros. The figures date back to 2016 and have not been updated in the interim, but the momentum continues. “Due to the groundwork conducted by institutional organisations over the past 20 years, Bordeaux has climbed the ranks to become one of the world’s major wine tourism destinations”, recounts Catherine Leparmentier Dayot, managing director of the Great Wine Capitals network*. “And yet, originally, wineries did not see the point of opening to the public because they sold their wines through the Bordeaux wine trade and not at the cellar door”.

What is the point of developing wine tourism activities?

Every wine region has now jumped on the bandwagon, in some respects forced to do so due to the industry crisis. The rationale is undeniably sound: this type of tourism boosts cellar door sales and offers a different source of income, one that is less contingent upon hazardous weather, unlike winegrowing. On average, a winery increases its revenue by 20% by offering wine tourism services. More importantly, it provides winegrowers with a formidable marketing tool which guarantees a direct, and instructive, contact with consumers and the promise of enhanced awareness. “When visitors leave with good memories, they will tend to choose your brand when they encounter it in restaurants or at wine merchants”, stresses Leparmentier Dayot. There is a small caveat, however: “A tour followed by a tasting is not enough. For the business model to work, you cannot only address wine enthusiasts, you also have to speak to tourists. And tourists want to enjoy memorable experiences”.

How can you make a success of it?

This is where imagination comes in. From theme days to the whole package – accommodation, catering and events – everyone makes their own choices based on their objectives and their abilities. A few principles should be followed however to stack the odds in your favour. Firstly, the quality of the service is the key to success and ranges from keeping to opening times to properly training staff.  “The offer does not necessarily need to be extensive but it needs to stand out and include a food aspect because that is part of what people expect in terms of enjoyment – a cheese and wine workshop is one example. Also, regularly hosting events is a way of getting local customers to return over and over again, often during the week and out of season”, adds Leparmentier Dayot. Ultimately, these newly-designed activities are a second job that requires time and money. Before investing “market research is essential to ascertain customers’ expectations, existing propositions and rates charged and to think about your positioning”.

What are the benefits of working as part of a network?

Once the offer has been established it then needs to be publicised via “an efficient, well-referenced website that needs to be bilingual at least and active presence on social media, where you need to be mindful of your e-reputation”, claims the expert. And because strength comes in numbers, connecting with marketing boards, producers’ organisations, chambers of agriculture and commerce, county, regional and local tourist information boards and other service providers is also pivotal to marketing and promotion. Joining certain schemes also boosts the effectiveness of networking – these include the ‘Vignobles & Découvertes’ endorsement by Atout France and competitions like the Best of Wine Tourism. Another way to boost sales is through “specialised online booking platforms and incoming agencies which are useful relays for reaching out to new customer audiences, particularly internationally”, concludes Leparmentier Dayot. The rest is up to you!

Florence Jaroniak,© pexels Sama Bairamova

*Established in 1999 by the Bordeaux Gironde CCI, the Great Wine Capitals Global Network aims to promote conversations among its members on trade, tourism and education. It organises the Best of Wine Tourism competition which every year awards the properties and service providers that offer unique, quality wine tourism solutions.

Bibliography (available as free downloads on the Atout France website):

https://www.atout-france.fr/fr/catalogue/etudes-publications/tourisme-et-vin-reussir-la-mise-en-marche

https://www.atout-france.fr/fr/catalogue/rendez-vous/imex-america-2023

The guarantee of a healthier lifestyle for consumers and source of diversification for producers, de-alcoholised product ranges are becoming a full-fledged market segment. With regulatory changes acting as a catalyst, wines with quality endorsements are a part of current thinking about the topic.

Contents:

• Unbridled growth
• Alternative choices…
• … And a move upmarket
• Terroir-driven wines?
• In the experimental stages

Unbridalled growth

The writing is on the wall. The first trade exhibition for de-alcoholised wines was held on 11 February 2024, the day before Wine Paris which hosted 50% more exhibitors in the No/Low category than last year. In 2023, 29 % of French people stated they drank alcohol-free or low-alcohol beverages, rising to 45% of 18-25 year-olds. Similarly, projections suggest there will be a substantial increase in sales within the category over the next few years. According to the American agency Fact.mr, the global market for de-alcoholised wines could reach 5.2 billion dollars by 2033, compared with 2 billion in 2022.

Alternative choices…

But who are these zero-alcohol (or almost) devotees? “Alongside those who abstain for medical or religious reasons or because they don’t like the taste, two thirds of our customers are flexi-drinkers”, shares Augustin Laborde, the founder of Le Paon Qui Boit’, the first alcohol-free concept wine store that launched in Paris in April 2022. Aged between 30 to 40 or senior citizens, they “want to continue to drink alcohol, but not every day and are looking for good quality, unusual substitutes that they will take pleasure in sharing with friends”, adds Laborde. Whereas two years ago he struggled to find products to list, now he is seeing samples flood in every day.

… And a move upmarket

Top wineries have jumped on the bandwagon, like Château La Coste, Château Clos de Boüard and Château Edmus. “Reference to renowned wine regions like Saint-Emilion reassures consumers”, stresses Laborde who has also noticed that “techniques have come along in leaps and bounds, even though their uniqueness makes de-alcoholised products more expensive to produce”. The result is “better crafted wines, with less sugar and more finesse, and even a little length on the palate” which are deliberately closed with cork stoppers to underscore their quality. However, although low-alcohol products “have similar cues to wine and certain aromas”, that’s where the resemblance ends, “especially for the reds”. To avoid any disappointments, Laborde therefore constantly reminds enthusiasts “that they must taste and not compare”.

Terroir-driven wines?

As the wine industry has become more organised by launching the NO/LOW wine collective and European regulations now permit partial de-alcoholisation for wines carrying an official quality and origin endorsement, the PGI wine committee at INAO has come down in favour of this option for wines as low as 6% ABV. This might suggest that AOCs could take the plunge…  “Would this undermine the style of the wine and its connection to terroir or not? What is the level of acceptability for the process among consumers of AOC wines? It’s difficult to answer these questions due to the lack of existing products”, claims Christian Paly, chairman of the appellation wine board at INAO. Additionally, introducing the possibility within the AOC space would imply “the complicated co-existence of two types of labelling”.

In the experimental stages

Despite this, missing the boat is not an option. In order to make informed decisions before positioning itself, the national board at INAO has decided to provide regional appellations that want to analyse the issue with a technical framework for experimentation. Côtes du Rhône have already signed up for it. Concurrently with this, the board commissioned France Agrimer to conduct prospective research into de-alcoholised AOC wines. Christian Paly warns: “Until we have conclusive answers to our questions, we will not be introducing de-alcoholisation into production specifications”. The message couldn’t be clearer.

Florence Jaroniak.

©_Nikola Spasenoski/AdobeStock

Sources :

As warm, sunny days return they usher in rosé wines, which remain as popular as ever. After a slight slowdown, the global market is showing signs of bouncing back. New areas of growth have emerged, whilst the appellations of Provence continue to make inroads in the premium segment.

Contents:

• Dynamic consumption trends and geographical renewal
• The grapes of growth
• Provence rosé, the chic version

Dynamic consumption trends and geographical renewal

The good news is that rosé is back in the pink of condition. “After two years of decline, rosé consumption gained 0.5 point between 2021 and 2022, reaching 19.6 million hectolitres globally”, comments Brice Amato, head of the economy and research department at the Provence wine marketing board (CIVP). This “goes against the tide for still wines across-the-board which dropped by 2.6% over the same period and 11.1% over a decade, versus a 1.8% increase for rosé”. According to the Global Rosé Observatory*, the main, mature consumer countries are witnessing a drop in volumes, with the exception of South Africa. Conversely, the fall posted in 2021 by France (which remains the undisputed leader) and the United States has lessened. “With annual per capita consumption of 1 litre of rosé, growth is still possible in the American market, which is moving away from sweet, high-alcohol blush wines in favour of dry, light-coloured rosés”, stresses Amato. Also, several countries like Canada have returned to growth mode. The major trend in 2022 though is geographical diversification with small or moderate consumer countries entering the fray. These are located in Central and Eastern Europe, spearheaded by Romania, and Asia-Oceania.

The grapes of growth

But why the popularity? Rosé is simple to understand and has successfully adapted to a number of drinking occasions and lighter meals, that can include international cuisine. There is a style to suit everyone’s tastes due to the array of grape varieties, vineyard sites and winemaking methods. And rosé is always the ideal companion for picnics and summer pre-dinner drinks, making its way onto restaurant wine lists, even in the winter. A case in point is the ‘Grain de Glace’ label released in 2009 by the Maîtres Vignerons de la Presqu’île de Saint-Tropez. It has also established its pedigree by honing the approach to winemaking techniques, with temperature control, a better choice of yeasts and oxygen management for instance, not to mention a range of barrel-aged offerings and some bottlings offering ageability. This quantum leap in quality has been helped by the 18 Provence Grands Crus, whose classification dates back to 1955. Another major contributor has been the Research and Experimentation Centre established in Vidauban (Var) in 1999.

Provence rosé, the chic version

This move upmarket has been fuelled by the differentiation afforded by ‘signature’ bottles and innovative packaging which boost rosé’s appeal and its lifestyle aspect, both of which have been widely staged on social media. In fact, in 2023, the CIVP decided to target US rosé-quaffing Millennials via a new advertising campaign. Rosé’s premium international positioning was able to draw on renowned ambassadors of the style or celebrities that have invested in it. Sacha Lichine set the tone in 2006 when he sold Prieuré-Lichine to buy Château d’Esclans and transformed it into a luxury product. Since then, others have followed in his wake – the likes of Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie, Tony Parker, George Lucas, George Clooney, Ridley Scott and Kylie Minogue. Mirroring LVMH, large corporations have also extended their Provencal footprint. On 22 April 2024, Pernod Ricard announced it had signed an agreement to buy Domaine Aux Terres de Ravel with the intention of expanding premium labels by Château Sainte-Marguerite, which it owns with the Fayard family. Another milestone in the pink gold rush!

Florence Jaroniak.©_Laurentiu lordache/Adobestock

*The Global Rosé Observatory was founded in 2002 by the Provence wine marketing board CIVP and FranceAgriMer with IWSR-Wine Intelligence. Its latest findings will be available at the end of June or beginning of July.

Even in a notoriously traditional sector like wine, artificial intelligence is gaining steam, as exemplified by the increasing number of solutions designed by innovative start-ups. There is no denying that when used wisely, the solutions can help members of the wine industry cope with multiple challenges, quickly and efficiently.

Contents:

• Using AI
• A keen eye in vineyards
• From tasting wines through to buying them
• The future for people

Using AI

The fundamental principle of Artificial Intelligence is based on simulating human cognitive skills. Created in the 1960s and popularised by ChatGPT, the technology has now become a part of our everyday lives, whilst prompting both concerns and delusions. “AI is just one of a whole host of resources”, says Charles Nespoulous, president of the start-up Chouette and a board member of the WineTech*, debunking some of the myths surrounding the discipline. It has a dual purpose, which is to “automate repetitive, time-consuming tasks” and to “process huge amounts of data and rapidly provide the right information, in the right place, at the right time and in the right format”. In fact, AI is only purposeful if it offers a “return on investment” in response to specific issues. At the production end of the industry,

climate change is leading winegrowers to review their practices. “Nowadays, a mistake in vineyard management can rapidly jeopardise the future of a winery, especially because escalating costs of basic materials and equipment is eroding profit margins”. This is where AI comes in.

A keen eye in the vineyards

“Only 1 to 3% of vines are monitored on a weekly basis”, recounts Nespoulous, which is why since 2015, Chouette has supplied AI-based vineyard monitoring technology. Its principle revolves around a sensor placed on the tractor which generates images that are subsequently retrieved by servers then processed using algorithms. “AI has been trained to examine up to 70 different aspects based on a database containing 35 million images sourced from across every region”. Consequently, a report of plant status – possible diseases or vine vigour for instance – is generated, along with recommendations to avoid crop losses, improve quality and optimise choices such as spraying strategies.

From tasting wines through to buying them

Gradually, AI is filtering through to every link in the supply chain, particularly marketing, to create descriptions or labels, and even through to the wine in the glass. Bordeaux-based Winespace has developed Tastee, the recipient of the 2024 V d’Or Best New Business Solution award. “The algorithm has the ability to analyse any type of text-based tasting note and extract all of the aroma and flavour characteristics of a wine. It can also compare styles and segment them, rank them by vintage, model the flavour development of the wine, and even the influence of the closure”, explains Julien Laithier, president of Winespace. The Concours Mondial de Bruxelles uses it to summarise its thousands of tasting reports and generate a complete, weighted review for each wine, including strengths and weaknesses, aroma and flavour profile. As a pioneer of virtual reality in the wine industry, WineVision offers 360° immersive visits to vineyards, wineries and cellar door facilities for instance. The itinerary is incorporated into a winery’s website and can be accessed using a number of media (VR headsets, smartphones, tablets…). It uses a chatbot – an avatar of the winegrower – to answer questions by consumers and turns into an interactive virtual showroom using a QR code placed on wine bottles.

The future for people

“One ‘virtual’ visitor in 5 subsequently wants to visit the winery”, claims Matthieu Varon, the co-founder of WineVision. He believes “this communication aid helps the winegrower stand out from the crowd and provide support during the shopping experience, whilst also increasing revenue”. From declining consumption through to carbon footprint and forgeries, the list of issues that can addressed by AI is long. Its potential is huge, but fortunately it also has its limitations. At this year’s ProWein exhibition, Moldova presented two wines made using AI as a decision-making aid throughout the entire process. Ultimately, after a comparative tasting, most people preferred the wine made by man…

Florence Jaroniak

 ©_shutterstock

*Established in 2016, the WineTech is a network that connects, promotes and trains innovative businesses in the wine industry. Over 130 start-ups are currently members.

Over 250 km from North to South, the vineyards of the Rhone Valley line one of France’s major rivers which brings life to the region. Here, the vineyard sites birth myriad wines. But what are their defining features and varietals? We take a deep dive into one of the oldest wine regions in the world.

Contents:

• From Antiquity to the present day
• The Northern Rhone Valley and its legendary appellations
• The 4 varietals that reign supreme in the northern reaches
• The Southern Rhone Valley and the art of blending

From Antiquity to the present day

Vines have thrived along the banks of the Rhone since Antiquity, with the Romans introducing vine growing to the region. By the 14^th century, the local wines – dubbed ‘wines of the Popes’ – had established an international reputation.

The present-day Rhone Valley wine region extends over more than 66,000 hectares or, as industry members like to say, “nearly 70,000 rugby pitches”. For appellation wines, it is France’s second largest region by volume after Bordeaux. In 2023, 5,000 farms produced 2.4 million hectolitres of wine.

The region offers a 360° vision of wine, spanning the stylistic spectrum, from  still white,  rosé and predominantly red wines (74%) to dessert and sparkling wines.

With its 31 AOCs (Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée) including 17 Crus, this major wine region is divided into two, very different areas: the Northern and the Southern Rhone Valley. From the soils and climate to the grape varieties, the differences between the two areas are significant. The region also covers other areas, from Vivarais to the Luberon and Die, which are farther away but nonetheless still part of the broader Rhone Valley wine region.

The Northern Rhone Valley and its legendary appellations

Vines flourish on the stunning narrow and breathtakingly steep hillsides, often terraced with dry stone walls for support. The soils are mostly granite and schist. The climate is temperate with a continental influence and the wind blows down the deep-cut valley. Lining the Rhone from North to South is a string of legendary appellations, from Côte-Rôtie and Condrieu to Saint-Joseph, Hermitage and Cornas to name a few.

The 4 varietals that reign supreme in the northern reaches

For reds, Syrah rules the roost. It delivers powerful, aromatic wines driven by red and black fruits, violet and delicious spicy notes of pepper and liquorice that are the variety’s trademark.

For whites, Viognier, Marsanne and Roussanne are the go-to grapes. Viognier offers up a mellow palate and a perfumed nose scented with yellow fruits that range from mango and pear to apricot, alongside white flowers. Condrieu and Château-Grillet appellation wines are single-varietal Viogniers. Occasionally, for Côte-Rôtie, a dash of Syrah is added.

Roussanne displays the ultimate in finesse, exuding floral scents of honeysuckle and iris. It is customary for the variety to be coupled with the powerful Marsanne grape with its dried fruit aromas – this is true of the Saint-Joseph and Hermitage appellations.

The Southern Rhone Valley and the art of blending

Vineyards in the South climb over plateaux and rolling hillsides. The soils are clay-gravel, sand and pebble-strewn. Here, the sun shines 2,800 hours a year and a dry, blustery wind – the Mistral – sweeps away both the clouds and the dampness.

The art of blending

In the southern part of the region, many grape varieties are fermented as blends. Grenache is the king of red varietals, yielding wines with aromas of black fruits like blackcurrant and blackberry. As the wines mature, they develop spice and garrigue aromas. Grenache is blended primarily with Syrah and Mourvèdre, though also Cinsault and Carignan.

In the high-end Châteauneuf-du-Pape appellation, 13 different grape varieties  can be blended to produce red and white wines, though Grenache noir remains predominant for the reds. It thrives on the glorious and amazing pebble-strewn soils swept down by the Rhone aeons ago. The stones absorb the heat of the day and radiate it back over night.

In the southern part of the valley, rosés are often blended from the same grape varieties as the reds. One example is Tavel, France’s oldest rosé-only appellation.

The whites offer a fusion of Grenache blanc, Clairette, Bourboulenc, Roussanne, Marsanne and Rolle, to name a few.

From North to South, and from light pours to fine age-worthy offerings, the wines of the Rhone Valley invite visitors to indulge in some wine-centric tourism to explore both the legendary appellations and the rising stars, including Rasteau, Cairanne and so many more.

Anne Schoendoerffer

Sources: www.vins-rhone.com , Anne Schoendoerffer

 ©AdobeStock_Africa Studio

Bordeaux has always been one of the most talked about wine regions in the world. Boasting 65 appellations, it is home to some incredible vineyard sites. But how does the Left Bank compare with the Right, and with Entre-Deux-Mers? (Re)discover this storied wine region.

Contents:

• An overview of present-day Bordeaux
• Left Bank, Right Bank or Entre-deux-Mers ?
• The outstanding terroirs along the Right Bank
• The famous Chateaux along the Left Bank
• Entre-deux-Mers: where white is the colour

An overview of present-day Bordeaux

The Bordeaux wine region covers 108,000 hectares of vines. These are farmed by 5,300 winegrowers, 29 co-operative wineries and 3 co-operative groups along with 300 trading companies. Its vineyards generate 60,000 jobs directly and indirectly related to the industry, most of which cannot be relocated to other areas.

Production in 2022 totalled 4.1 million hectolitres, equivalent to 548 million bottles. As Bordeaux industry members like to say, “18 bottles of Bordeaux are sold around the world every second”. The vast majority of the wines – 85% – are red, with a balance of white (7%), rosé (4%) and Crémant (2%).

Left Bank, Right Bank or Entre-Deux-Mers?

The Bordeaux wine region is all about geography. To understand its 65 appellations, accounting for one quarter of all French AOCs, you have to discover its three main areas.

It all starts with the Gironde estuary and further up-river with the Garonne and the Dordogne which flow into it. The vineyards of the Right Bank are located north of the Dordogne, whilst the Left Bank vineyards are situated south of the Garonne. With Entre-Deux-Mers the clue is in the name – it literally means between two waters and is located between both rivers.

The outstanding terroirs along the Right Bank

North-East of Bordeaux lies the birthplace of the prestigious Saint-Emilion Crus Classés, a star-studded crown with jewels like Château Ausone and Château Cheval Blanc, along with the storied Petrus in the Pomerol appellation area. Basking in a temperate climate, the soils are mainly clay, but also feature limestone, sand or gravel. Here, Merlot is king. In Saint-Emilion and Pomerol it is mostly vinted as a single varietal or occasionally blended with Cabernet Franc or Cabernet-Sauvignon. Wines from the Right Bank are viewed as being supple and balanced. They are usually easier to drink when young than their counterparts from the Left Bank.

The famous Chateaux along the Left Bank

To the North, not far from Bordeaux, the chateaux become the stars – names like Château Margaux, Château Cos d’Estournel, Château Haut-Brion, Château Lafite-Rothschild and Mouton Rothschild, to name a few. The global reputation of these prestigious properties is also due to their prominent classification systems – the 1855 official Médoc classification, the 1953 Graves Crus Classés classification and the official 1855 Sauternes classification system.

On this bank, the Cabernet-Sauvignon grape variety is king. It is blended with Merlot – which in this area is a minority varietal – and delivers powerful wines which are enhanced with age.

For the white wines of Sauternes, home to Château d’Yquem farther South, the main grape varieties used for these fine noble-rot wines are Sémillon and Sauvignon blanc. The micro-climate in the vineyard sites here is conducive to the onset of a fungus, botrytis, which produces the golden nectar.

Entre-Deux-Mers: where white is the colour

Located between the Garonne and the Dordogne, Entre-Deux-Mers is considered to be Bordeaux’s largest wine region. Its wines are predominantly white, and the star grape variety is Sauvignon. In this appellation area, it is blended with Sémillon and Muscadelle. Since the 2023 vintage, red wines have also become eligible for the appellation.

So what should you choose between the Left Bank, the Right Bank and Entre-Deux-Mers? One thing’s for sure, Bordeaux is reinventing itself and is focusing more on its consumers as evidenced by wines that are more accessible, both in terms of flavour profile and packaging, and winegrowers who have made a pledge to protect the environment. All of this and more can be (re)discovered along the Bordeaux wine routes.

Anne Schoendoerffer

Sources: www.bordeaux.com/fr , Anne Schoendoerffer  ©AdobeStock_Igor Normann

As part of the European Observatory for Organic Wine Consumption, the organisers of trade exhibition Millésime Bio* commissioned the Circana agency to survey 1,054 organic wine buyers last September. The aim was to put together a profile of the typical French organic wine buyer. But what are the strengths of this market, and the positive trends? We take a closer look at the findings of the research.

Contents

• What is the market for organic wine, and vineyard acreage?
• What are the strengths of the organic wine market?
• What are the positive trends for organic wine purchases?
• What are price points for organic wine, and why choose organic?

What is the market for organic wine, and vineyard acreage?

Despite the challenging situation for the wine industry and organic foods, “the organic wine industry is proving to be in fine fettle. It is booming, with revenue up by 6.3% in 2022”, stresses Nicolas Richarme, chairman of trade organisation Sudvinbio. In 5 years, the market has surged by 50%, and increased from 444 million euros in 2012 to 1.463 billion in 2022.

Concurrently with this, French vineyard acreage is increasingly being farmed organically, with area under vine growing from 78,471 hectares in 2017 to 170,806 ha in 2022.

What are the strengths of the organic wine market?

Organic wines are successfully weathering the storm because of their unique distribution channels. Richarme believes that their primary strength is “direct-to-consumer sales”, which hold a 30% share and increased by 5% in 2022. Another of the category’s strong points is its export focus, with 38% of the wines shipped overseas (up 2% in 2022). As Christophe Ferreira, a consultant with Circana, points out, “In export markets there is plenty of room for growth”.

The on-trade is also in growth mode, at +12%, as are wine merchants (+8%), counterbalancing declining sales in super/hypermarkets (-7%) and specialist organic stores (-7%).

What are the positive trends for organic wine purchases?

The industry continues to recruit new customers. “Over the past 12 months, 39% of new organic wine buyers were registered and the age profiles are younger with 12% of them aged under 25. They also come from a more diverse range of social backgrounds”, adds Ferreira.

Increased purchases

37 % of buyers increased their organic wine purchases over the year, versus 11% who bought less. And looking ahead, whilst 32% plan to increase their organic wine purchases, only 12% intend to reduce them.

And the icing on the cake is that organic wine buyers help ramp up shares for the organic market. How? Because 92% of organic wine buyers are mixed – they buy both organic and conventional wines. They buy an average 42% organic wines and 58% non-organic, and those who intend to increase their organic wine purchases outnumber those who plan to buy more conventional wines.

What are the price points for organic wine, and why choose organic?

Price points

The more customers seek out quality wines, the more they feel the wine should be organic. In the 5 to 10 euro price bracket, 27% of organic wine buyers believe it is essential that a wine should be organic. The percentage rises to 36% for wines priced above 15 euros.

Why do they buy organic wine?                                   

71 % of organic wine buyers say they are driven  by environmental concerns. Trust and health are also significant drivers. However, 33% also explain that they buy organic in a ‘passive way’ – i.e. organic is not the main purchasing cue but they buy organic because the wines recommended to them or their personal preferences lean towards organic.

As Christophe Ferreira stresses, “The organic wine market is different to other products in the organic industry”. For wine, there is a definite positive upward trend that is conducive to organic purchases.

Anne Schoendoerffer

Sources: Agence Bio, Millésime Bio/Sudvinbio,©Canva_shotprime

*The 31^st Millésime Bio exhibition, the largest organic wine exhibition in the world, is due to take place on 22 and 23 January 2024 in digital format, and from 29 to 31 January 2024 for the in-person event.

When you think about Rome, the vibrancy of the Italian capital city, the Coliseum, the Vatican, the Pantheon and so many other landmarks spring to mind. But how about vineyards? Outside local residents, the Lazio wine region is very much under-the-radar. So what is its history? Which grape varieties are grown there? We take a closer look at this ancient wine region which is starting to broaden its international horizons thanks to a new generation of producers.

Contents

• Lazio’s wines, a fusion of long-standing heritage and modernity
• The Lazio wine region
• Native grape varieties
• Wine tourism in Lazio

Lazio’s wines, a fusion of long-standing heritage and modernity

The history of wine in Lazio dates back to the Etruscans, and its production to Antiquity. There were already vineyards in Ancient Rome, and across the entire Roman Empire, the local wines were renowned. This winegrowing tradition has come down the centuries, and now the younger generations, many of them women, are perpetuating this time-honoured history by rooting it firmly in the 21^st century. A case in point is Merumalia, a winery run by two young women who combine viticultural tradition, organic farming and modern facilities and wines. Or Casale Vallechiesa which leverages innovation to improve both its customer experience and production, via blockchain technology.

The Lazio wine region

The 18,000 hectares under vine extend all around the city, mostly over rolling hills. The Mediterranean climate, notwithstanding climate change, remains conducive to growing vines. The soils are varied and range from volcanic to clay.

Since 2014, producers have begun to embrace organic farming. According to the Lazio regional agency for the development of innovation and agriculture (ARSIAL), 14% of the region’s vineyards are farmed organically, up 45% on 2014.

Lazio’s 400 wineries produce an average of 0.8 million hectolitres of wine a year, 75% of which is white and 25% red. Of the area’s 6 PGIs (Protected Geographical Indication) and 27 PDOs (Protected Designation of Origin or DOP in Italian), twenty or so are earmarked for white wine.

Lazio wines, which until now have been largely drunk by the people of Rome, are increasingly moving outside the local market. Exports of Lazio-made wines have surged by 20.4% compared with 2020, according to Istat-Qualivita.

Native grape varieties

The character of Lazio wines stem from native grapes, which have been grown for centuries. The region’s ampelography database lists 94 grape varieties, 45 white, 42 red, 2 pink and 1 blush.

For the white varietals, the star grapes are Trebbiano and Malvasia. For DOC Frascati, one of the region’s most iconic appellations, the wines are a blend of Malvasia, Trebbiano and Bellone. Their key calling cards are freshness and exuberance.

For the reds, the undisputed leader is the low-cropping, late-ripening Cesanese variety which delivers lovely aromas of cherry and spices. Other native red grape varieties include the vigorous Nero Buono.

Wine tourism in Lazio

In Lazio, wine tourism stands at the intersection between cultural diversity and a rich gourmet food heritage. From the culture of Antiquity to the hustle and bustle of life in Rome, the Vatican, gastronomy and wines, the region has everything it takes to offer a rewarding wine tourism experience. Family-run wineries, like Villa Simone, and larger co-operative wineries like Cincinnato are often open every day. As per local traditions, the people of Rome still regularly visit wineries to buy their wine directly. The most romantic will arrive with a demi-john, whereas more modern imbibers will come empty-handed and go away with a bag-in-box.

Broadening your wine horizons by taking a trip to the vineyards of Lazio is most definitely a great idea.

Anne Schoendoerffer ©AdobeStock_margot

Sources : https://www.arsial.it/ , Anne Schoendoerffer

Sable de Camargue blush wines have just been awarded a stand-alone appellation. But where are the wines grown and why are they referred to as blush or Gris/Gris de Gris? We take a closer look at this specific coastline appellation where sand is king.

Contents

• The Vins Sable de Camargue wine region
• Pre-phylloxera vines
• Gris or Gris de Gris?

The Vins Sable de Camargue wine region

If you travel along the coastline between Sète and Les Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer, via seaside locations such as Marseillan, Le Grau du Roi and Aigues-Mortes, you will see 3,000 hectares of vines planted in sand. The landscape, with its brackish lagoons, salt flats, shades of pink and flamingos – the appellation’s emblem – is unique. But it’s not just the scenery that stands out – on these poor, highly permeable soils subjected to a maritime influence and buffeted by the wind, the surrounding biodiversity is outstanding. Over 1,000 species of fauna and flora bask in 300 days of sunshine a year.

From the small grape growers who farm a few rows of vines to the family-run wineries and one of Europe’s largest operations, a total 89 people farm vines here, 90% of them either organic or converting to organic. As the Sable de Camargue producers’ organisation points out: “We are one of very few appellations that can claim to have virtually all of our vineyard acreage farmed organically”.

Pre-phylloxera vines

At the end of the 19^th century, this parasitic aphid came from the United States and decimated millions of acres of vineyards, in Europe and across the globe. This tiny 0.5mm insect continues to abound, except in a handful of countries like Chile or in just a few vineyard blocks, which are usually protected by small walls, as at Clos Cristal in the Loire Valley. Another exception is the Sable de Camargue wine region where the naturally sandy texture of the soil prevents the formation of galleries where the aphid spreads. Vines are therefore own-rooted – or not grafted onto a resistant American rootstock – unlike most of the world’s vineyards.

Gris or Gris de Gris?

The difference between Gris and Gris de Gris lies in the grape variety and whether the wine is blended or not. If you taste a Gris de Gris AOP Vins Sable de Camargue, it will be a single varietal Grenache gris. If you choose a Gris, it will be a blended wine. In the vineyards of the Camargue, the main grape varieties are Grenache noir, Merlot and Grenache gris, though there is also Cinsault, Cabernet-Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Grenache blanc and Carignan.

From a winemaking perspective, as the Guide Hachette points out: “Blush wine (or Gris) is produced by fermenting grapes with coloured skins (black or pink) as a white wine, using direct-to-press with no soaking. It is a rosé with a very pale colour”.

In terms of colour, Gris and Gris de Gris wines are different from conventional rosés in that their colour is very light, with a pale salmon-pink hue.

Benedictine monks certainly made no mistake when they planted vines in the 7^th century in Saint Laurent d’Aigouze in the southern part of the Gard department in the Occitania region. The new AOP Vins Sable de Camargue is truly unique.

Anne Schoendoerffer ©AdobeStock_Rostislav Sedlacek

Sources: www.vin-sable-camargue.com, www.hachette.com