From sculptures emerging from the vines and writers lending their pen to a vintage to paintings displayed in the heart of wineries, art is finding a home in wine estates around the world. It has become more than just a magnet for visitors, offering a different way of telling the story of wine and its creators, engaging both the palette and the palate.
Contents:
- Stepping beyond sculpture
- As old as wine itself
- The same patience, and the same goal
- Look before you taste
Look before you tast
Stepping beyond sculpture
Three metres tall. Green, and made from rubber. Set in the very heart of the grounds at Château Chasse-Spleen, in Moulis-en-Médoc, this pair of oversized boots designed by Lilian Bourgeat sets the tone. The first piece of artwork acquired by Céline Villars-Foubet and her husband in 2009, it immediately invites visitors to follow in the footsteps of art enthusiasts. “These are the exact same ones worn by workers in our vineyards and in the winery. When we stumbled across them, we knew immediately that we had to have them”, explains Villars-Foubet, an architect by profession who grew up next to a contemporary art museum. Since those first steps, the couple’s foray into the art world has continued. An anamorphic installation by Felice Varini transforms the cellar, while a contemporary art centre opened in 2017. As for the boots, they have become Chasse-Spleen’s emblem. “Everybody takes photos of themselves in front of the boots. They have become so iconic that we have included them on our label. The artwork is instantly understandable, sparks interest and adds to the estate’s aesthetic appeal”. For nearly twenty years, an original phrase written by a contemporary author has also been appended to every vintage. “Our property has one of the most literary chateau names there is. We wanted to take the same approach as Mouton Rothschild with artists on its labels, but with literature”. For Céline Villars-Foubet, the approach is neither a marketing gimmick nor part of a wine tourism strategy. “We have a profound love of art and feel it is important to offer it in a rural location. It is neither a way of popularising wine nor of making it more elitist. It quite simply adds a touch of soul and connection”.
As old as wine itself
On closer inspection, the dialogue between wine and the arts is nothing new. “Dionysos, the god of wine, is also the god of theatre and patron of the arts. In other words, the connection is already well-established in the mythology of our Greco-Roman civilisations”, stresses historian and author Florence Monferran, who also grows wine at Clos de Miège, in Languedoc. Down through the centuries, wine has inspired artists, writers and poets. In the 1920s, Philippe de Rothschild breathed new life into this relationship by commissioning artists like Picasso, Dalí and Warhol to design the labels of his fine wines. “He offered a very practical expression of the bond between wine and artistic creation. In a way, he made a statement about wine also being art”. The ties between the two became even closer when prominent financiers and captains of industry entered the wine world. “They are often patrons and keen lovers of art and therefore brought the two worlds together quite naturally”, notes Monferran. Yet culture can also be found outside the prestigious art centres at Smith Haut Lafitte, Château La Coste and Peyrassol. From exhibitions and concerts to readings and land art festivals, the range of experiences is broadening and going more mainstream. “They are extremely fashionable and have become accessible to a wider audience, offering a gateway into wine, particularly for novices”, adds Monferran.
Look before you taste
This vibrancy is exactly what grips Champagne during Vign’Art. Facing the hills of Cuchery, a young man contemplates the landscape. Titled ‘En Face’ or ‘Opposite’, the sculpture is by wood carver Antonin Martineau, a recipient of the prestigious ‘Meilleur Ouvrier de France’ award. This monumental piece of art was installed as part of the 2026 festival. “It can be interpreted on three levels: the face-to-face encounter between the spectator and the sculpture, between the sculpture and the landscape, or the encounter with oneself”, the artist explains. It is also an invitation to slow down in a location he found to be teeming with life. “I was struck by the number of people working in the vineyards, they’re a true hive of activity. My sculpture invites you to take time out for contemplation and to realise that wine is so much more than just a bottle. It is also all the work that goes into it”. Martineau feels that art amongst the vineyards serves as a bridge, forging an instant connection between producers and their terroir.
The same patience, and the same goal
Artists shape materials, while winegrowers compose with nature. Their techniques may differ, but Antonin Martineau establishes an obvious parallel between the two: “Sculpture is a labour of patience, a process of creation that echoes the work of the winegrower. In both cases, the result stems from a legacy and expertise”. For Florence Monferran, the same quest for excellence defines them. “To quote Philippe de Rothschild: “Fine wine is an art.Many winegrowers are engaged in this pursuit, like Laurent Vaillé, the creator of La Grange des Pères, dubbed the ‘Mozart of wine’”. Céline Villars-Foubet prefers to quote renowned consultant oenologist Denis Dubourdieu: “Wine is both an aesthetic and sensory pursuit”.
While she does not liken winegrowers to artists, she admits there are similarities in the creative process: “There is the same pursuit of balance, sensitivity and high standards.
Wine is extremely subtle, it is woven into a very long history, carries with it a culture and a quest for beauty”. Ultimately, perhaps wine and art have the same ambition – to strike an emotional chord in us. “Art makes me happy and I feel that beauty is absolutely essential because it helps us through life’s difficult times”, concludesCéline Villars-Foubet. “I hope that visitors feel some of this, that their encounter with art adds something special to the curiosity, the pleasure and the emotions they feel when they discover the estate”.
Florence Jaroniak. © Château Chasse-Spleen.