Long overshadowed by barrels, amphorae are starting to make a statement in modern wineries. With its natural materials, variety of shapes and minimum intervention ethos, this ancient vessel is increasingly popular with winegrowers in search of authenticity and precision.
Contents:
• 6,000 years of history
• A breath of purity
• Vessels that come in a variety of shapes
• A niche headed mainstream
• When tradition and innovation resonate with each other
6,000 years of history
Recognisable by their sleek shape and characteristic handles, amphorae first emerged in the Middle East around 4000 BC. By 1500 BC the Phoenicians had adopted them and they became the Romans’ preferred means of transporting their wines. At the time, every vessel bore its own distinctive identity – a shape, stamp or mark – which in effect were the forerunners of the modern-day tracking system. But amphorae were more than just a means of transport. Their porous clay sealed by resin and their cork closures topped with another closure made from clay or pozzolan, created ideal conditions for storing wine. Subsequently superseded by barrels, they are now experiencing a remarkable revival.
A breath of purity
“Amphorae or earthenware jars and their various iterations are particularly popular with estates that farm organically or biodynamically. They fit naturally into a holistic philosophy of winemaking and maturation where the aim is to protect fruit quality, use a natural and sustainable material and intervene as little as possible by restricting or avoiding use of inputs”,explains Volga Voronovskaïa, head of communications at V&T Amphores, a company that specialises in selecting, developing and distributing the vessels in Gradignan, near Bordeaux. For Maxence Weck, amphorae’s natural micro-oxygenation lends wine “genuine clean characters and great purity”. At the helm of a family estate in Gueberschwihr whose roots date back to 1696, he has chosen to work with a natural stoneware model “which is less porous and more robust than terracotta” to ferment small batches of fruit from designated vineyard sites and individual blocks. “We use a 500-litre version for the Grand Cru Florimont and another 1,000-litre format for the Grand Cru Hatschbourg. Our aim is to offer a different interpretation of terroir, by crafting skin contact wines where red winemaking techniques are applied to whites, producing an orange wine.”
Vessels that come in a variety of shapes
Every material puts its own distinctive stamp on the wines. “Terracotta, being porous, is well-suited to powerful grape varieties and short maturation periods whereas stoneware is more neutral and enhances white wines and delicate reds with low tannin content; technical ceramics, which are stable and easy to handle, can even incorporate accessories like a tasting tap”, adds Voronovskaïa. Granite, which is virtually impermeable and rich in quarz, “adds a special touch to ice wines and age-worthy bottlings, by preserving their acidity”. Some winegrowers also turn to amphora-like vessels such as Spanish tinajas and Georgian kvevris, often buried in keeping with local traditions, which foster different fermentation and maturation dynamics. Shape and volume matter too: convex jars, vertical or horizontal eggs and rounder dolia that taper at the base have differing contours that create distinctive convection patterns, influencing the way the lees are put back into suspension – an important factor in the stability and texture of a wine.
A niche headed mainstream
To meet modern needs, amphorae are now equipped with practical accessories, though their cost, fragility and labour demands remain significant challenges. “The limitations mainly involve their size”, notes Weck. “Amphorae are ideal for small vineyard blocks, but too cumbersome for an entire vineyard”. The initial investment is admittedly high yet amphorae pay for themselves over time – with careful cleaning and protection from sudden temperature shifts, they can remain a winegrowers’ ally for life. Oxygen management, however, requires special caution. As a result, amphorae are gradually becoming a deliberate choice for premium labels often crafted in small batches or used in combination with barrels and stainless steel. “This is not a short-lived trend”, claims Voronovskaïa. “The most ardent supporters make them their winemaking focus, whilst others try them out on a clutch of wines”. Comparative tastings confirm that within the same vintage, the differences between amphorae, barrels and stainless steel are noticeable.
When tradition and innovation resonate with each other
Most importantly, wines made in amphorae are attracting new consumers whilst also piquing the interest of a more traditional consumer base. “Many people instinctively associate jars with the Romans. They are tempted to try the wines out of curiosity, and are often pleasantly surprised by the taste. When made in amphorae, Gewurztraminer, which is usually perceived as a sweet wine, becomes dry, tense, aromatic and powerful”, recounts Weck. Though amphorae require careful handling, they also allow producers to get their creative juices flowing. “The best advice”, concludes Voronovskaïa, “is to try them. Anyone who has is invariably won over”. Ultimately, amphorae serve as a bridge between ancient heritage and more modern-day experimentations. They’re also a reminder that with wine, the future is always rooted in the past.
Florence Jaroniak.
© V&T Amphores.
Find out more (in French):
https://archeologie-vin.inrap.fr/Archeologie-du-vin/Histoire-du-vin/Antiquite-Culture-et-societe
https://www.museecapdagde.com/le-musee/departement-navigation-antique/amphores