Blanc de noirs steps outside its bubble

‘Blanc de noirs’ was once the prerogative of sparkling wines, but is now increasingly gracing tables in its still iteration. Taking a completely opposite approach to its fizzy counterparts in terms of techniques and marketing, it is gaining traction with both winegrowers and wine merchants.

Different wines, from the same vines

The boundaries are shifting in the wine space, but rather than switch sides, some wineries are opting to redesign it with the materials they have to hand. Basically, this is how you could describe the new tack taken by winegrowers who are leveraging their red grape varieties to produce ‘blancs de noirs’, without having to pull vines or focus on bubbles. A technique once limited to Champagne, it involves taking black-skinned grapes direct-to-press then fermenting them as you would a white wine. The resultant wines are both an effective means of diversifying and also a skilful response to the decline in consumer demand for red wines, and they’re gaining ground, particularly across vineyards in the South of France.

The South of France sets the tempo

In Roussillon, for instance, winegrowers have begun to plant white cultivars, but restoring balance takes time – white AOP Collioure was only recognised in 2003. To complement this strategy, some wineries are focusing on ‘blanc de noirs’. A case in point is Maison Parcé Frères, who pioneered the concept in 2019, along with Domaine Augustin and La Préceptorie. “Historically, our wine region was skewed towards red wines, particularly dessert wines that gradually shifted to dry styles. Although we have coverage of that market, we were already lacking in white wine, which has now become the favourite colour of French consumers”, explains Vincent Parcé.

Innovation rooted in common sense

Another advantage is being able to throw off the shackles of seasonality. The region is a long-time producer of deep-hued rosés but it has seen its typicity undermined by the surge in pale styles. “We preferred not to slavishly follow the trend and deliver “wines on demand”. If a rosé is out of stock on August 1, people complain; if there’s any left on August 31, nobody wants it. Blanc de noirs, on the other hand, sells all year round”, stresses Parcé. The approach also offers agronomic benefits in the face of climate change: it allows growers to harvest earlier, starting in August, without having to wait for peak phenolic ripeness and yet producing wines with an ABV of 12.5 to 13%, which are lighter and strike a chord with current tastes.

Technically challenging

Although the technique is familiar to producers, it is challenging, starting with the choice of grape variety. Forget Syrah and Carignan – which are deemed to add too much colour – the suitable grapes here are Grenache noir and Lladoner Pelut. “We harvest very healthy fruit that is slightly under-ripe then press it gently to avoid extracting colour. Right from the outset, our aim was to ferment the wines with no decolourising agents such as charcoal”, explains Parcé. “The challenge was to combine juice clarity and economically viable yields. We perfected the technique over time – through pressing protocols and malolactic fermentation – which we did not use for our whites but which reduce colour slightly more, followed by barrel maturation for 7 months with daily lees stirring”.

Wines that pique consumers’ interest

These efforts have paid off – production has risen from 1,000 bottles in 2019 to nearly 10,000 today. Romy Touchet, manager of the Cave des Chouans wine store in Jard-sur-Mer, says she has seen growing interest in the category: “We introduced a still blanc de noirs wine to our selection because of its uniqueness. There is a distinct interest in unusual wines among 30–40 year-olds. Over 50s tend to stick to what they know”. To date, no customers have spontaneously asked for this type of wine, due to lack of awareness. “We have to provide more explanations about the winemaking method, grape varieties, style etc. It requires some real education”, adds the wine merchant.

A versatile companion for food

Unlike its sparkling version, still ‘blanc de noirs’ offers a more accessible, everyday approach with trademark typicity. “The Pinot Noir that we list is still very expressive – its vinous mouthfeel is counterbalanced by freshness, subtle minerality and noticeable fruitiness. Blancs de noirs wines therefore broaden the range of pairing possibilities beyond dishes associated with traditional white wines. People enjoy the style and we are considering extending our portfolio with similar wines”, concludes Touchet.

A groundswell of interest

Although there are still obstacles to overcome – particularly lower juice yields and occasionally a lack of clarity in the winemaking techniques used – the movement is picking up steam and has spilled out beyond the borders of Roussillon. From Corsica (Domaine Giudicelli, Comte Peraldi…) to the Loire (Domaines Mourat,Couly-Dutheil….), via Bordeaux (Château Peybonhomme-les-Tours, Château Castera, Domaines Bourotte-Audy…) and Provence (Château Grand Boise, Clos des B…), there is no shortage of initiatives, the rationale being to add value to the range. Still ‘blanc de noirs’ is no longer an oddity in the wine space but is gradually carving out a place for itself – it is effectively a chameleon that can muddy the waters, without compromising on precision.