As warm, sunny days return they usher in rosé wines, which remain as popular as ever. After a slight slowdown, the global market is showing signs of bouncing back. New areas of growth have emerged, whilst the appellations of Provence continue to make inroads in the premium segment.
Contents:
- Dynamic consumption trends and geographical renewal
- The grapes of growth
- Provence rosé, the chic version
Dynamic consumption trends and geographical renewal
The good news is that rosé is back in the pink of condition. “After two years of decline, rosé consumption gained 0.5 point between 2021 and 2022, reaching 19.6 million hectolitres globally”, comments Brice Amato, head of the economy and research department at the Provence wine marketing board (CIVP). This “goes against the tide for still wines across-the-board which dropped by 2.6% over the same period and 11.1% over a decade, versus a 1.8% increase for rosé”. According to the Global Rosé Observatory*, the main, mature consumer countries are witnessing a drop in volumes, with the exception of South Africa. Conversely, the fall posted in 2021 by France (which remains the undisputed leader) and the United States has lessened. “With annual per capita consumption of 1 litre of rosé, growth is still possible in the American market, which is moving away from sweet, high-alcohol blush wines in favour of dry, light-coloured rosés”, stresses Amato. Also, several countries like Canada have returned to growth mode. The major trend in 2022 though is geographical diversification with small or moderate consumer countries entering the fray. These are located in Central and Eastern Europe, spearheaded by Romania, and Asia-Oceania.
The grapes of growth
But why the popularity? Rosé is simple to understand and has successfully adapted to a number of drinking occasions and lighter meals, that can include international cuisine. There is a style to suit everyone’s tastes due to the array of grape varieties, vineyard sites and winemaking methods. And rosé is always the ideal companion for picnics and summer pre-dinner drinks, making its way onto restaurant wine lists, even in the winter. A case in point is the ‘Grain de Glace’ label released in 2009 by the Maîtres Vignerons de la Presqu’île de Saint-Tropez. It has also established its pedigree by honing the approach to winemaking techniques, with temperature control, a better choice of yeasts and oxygen management for instance, not to mention a range of barrel-aged offerings and some bottlings offering ageability. This quantum leap in quality has been helped by the 18 Provence Grands Crus, whose classification dates back to 1955. Another major contributor has been the Research and Experimentation Centre established in Vidauban (Var) in 1999.
Provence rosé, the chic version
This move upmarket has been fuelled by the differentiation afforded by ‘signature’ bottles and innovative packaging which boost rosé’s appeal and its lifestyle aspect, both of which have been widely staged on social media. In fact, in 2023, the CIVP decided to target US rosé-quaffing Millennials via a new advertising campaign. Rosé’s premium international positioning was able to draw on renowned ambassadors of the style or celebrities that have invested in it. Sacha Lichine set the tone in 2006 when he sold Prieuré-Lichine to buy Château d’Esclans and transformed it into a luxury product. Since then, others have followed in his wake – the likes of Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie, Tony Parker, George Lucas, George Clooney, Ridley Scott and Kylie Minogue. Mirroring LVMH, large corporations have also extended their Provencal footprint. On 22 April 2024, Pernod Ricard announced it had signed an agreement to buy Domaine Aux Terres de Ravel with the intention of expanding premium labels by Château Sainte-Marguerite, which it owns with the Fayard family. Another milestone in the pink gold rush!
Florence Jaroniak.©_Laurentiu lordache/Adobestock
*The Global Rosé Observatory was founded in 2002 by the Provence wine marketing board CIVP and FranceAgriMer with IWSR-Wine Intelligence. Its latest findings will be available at the end of June or beginning of July.