Volcanic wines have finally got their own signature endorsement. ‘Volcanic Origin’ places the French region of Auvergne at the epicentre of global recognition, combining rigorous science, outstanding vineyard sites and the magnetism of storytelling.
Contents:
- An industry bubbling with anticipation
- Auvergne, the central vent
- In the beginning was lava
- A sensory eruption
- A geological interpretation of wine
- A new continent for winegrowing
An industry bubbling with anticipation
Could wine’s unique features stem from the Earth’s core? Vines thrive on soils that have emerged from eruptions, from Etna to Auvergne’s volcanic peaks or Puys. The purpose of the new Volcanic Origin endorsement is to certify their distinctive identity. This newly-minted label – which has been registered with France’s National Institute of Industrial Property INPI – was launched on June 24 in Clermont-Ferrand at the Vinora Forum, where producers of volcanic wines from across the globe hold their ‘summit meeting’. “This is not a marketing gimmick but a true guarantee of origin rooted in strict specifications to avoid any opportunistic exploitation of the concept”, stresses Pierre Desprat who runs Despret-Saint-Verny and is vice-chairman of Vinora, the organisation that spawned the project. To warrant the endorsement, wines have to contain at least 85% grapes from certified volcanic vineyard sites that have been validated by geological mapping and soil analyses. Artificial inputs are banned and each wine undergoes two levels of inspection, both internal and external.
Auvergne, the central vent
Vinora’s idea stems from a lack of awareness compared with prominent industry names such as Chablis and Meursault. “You cannot simply say that our wine is good or different – you need to be able to explain why”, adds Desprat. The catalyst for the project was the initial indifference shown towards wines from Auvergne by a buyer from the SAQ in Montreal. When he found out they came from volcanic soils, he changed his mind. “I realised that we had outstanding vineyard sites that we were unable to promote”. The Vinora association was founded seven years ago by a group of winegrowers, distributors and researchers. By 2019, it had partnered with the French Vine & Wine Institute IFV to launch a research programme with the universities of Dijon and Montreal. Three studies later and the findings are clear: volcanic soil undeniably leaves its mark on wine, whilst at the same time bolstering vines’resilience.
In the beginning was lava
But what are the actual specifics of the soil? “There is no such thing as volcanic soil per se but rather incredible geological diversity”, explains geologist Charles Frankel. Gabbro, scoria, pozzolan and pumice stone are “Porous, fractured rocks stemming from lava which promote root development and retain water. A case in point is Santorini, where vines grow on pumice stone produced by an eruption in 1612 BC in a desert-like climate”. Some rocks break down to form clay or peperites, a mixture of basalt and limestone which provides a rare abundance of minerals, particularly in Auvergne. “Growing vines on an active volcano is a bit like playing Russian roulette”, admits Frankel. “But the occasional risk is more than compensated for by the advantages afforded by volcanic landforms. Altitude, aspect, incline and microclimates turn them into an open-air laboratory, especially for coping with climate change ”.
A sensory eruption
Despite this, “it would be pretentious to claim that you can recognise a volcanic wine in a blind tasting”, admits John Szabo. A Master Sommelier who is one of the world’s foremost authorities on the subject, he prefers to cite common traits. “Salt, grit and power”, are the three words he uses, quoting from the title of his book on volcanic wines. Frankel adds some subtleties: “Each volcano has birthed its own grape varieties that are born of a long-standing combined development between man and soils. Nerello Mascalese on Etna is one such example”. A single volcano can produce different styles depending on the elevation, aspect and winemaking methods. This makes it like comparing apples and oranges, “aside from some exceptions like Oregon, where the same Pinot noir planted at similar altitudes yields a fruity style of wine on basalt and more complex profiles on limestone”. One thing, though, is for sure – volcanic wines excel with food. “More importantly, they tell a story that sommeliers love to share and wine enthusiasts love to hear. This significantly enhances the tasting experience”, points out Szabo.
A geological interpretation of wine
“The volcanic lens offers a new approach to tasting that is not horizontal or vertical but cross-cutting”, comments Frankel. Szabo feels that Volcanic Origin introduces “a smart way of viewing wine, which is meaningful for new or younger consumers. Of all the possible geological markers, volcanic is undoubtedly the most engaging because it fascinates a broad-ranging audience”. The movement is gaining traction. “I have been writing about volcanic wines for 15 years. Recognition of them is exploding. This is no longer a niche but a full-fledged category”. Markets are reflecting this popularity: Côtes-d’Auvergne (350 hectares) sells 100% of its wines every year. Demand is outpacing supply and prices have surged by 26% in 7 years. In both Parisian wine stores and on the wine lists of top restaurants, the ‘volcanic wine’ section is expanding.
A new continent for winegrowing
The wines’ popularity is being replicated among producers. Forty wineries have already applied for the Volcanic Origin endorsement and the aim is to reach around one hundred by the end of 2025. John Szabo is channelling the trend in North America whilst Vinora is laying the groundwork in Europe. The next step is a presentation of scientific research in New York at the start of 2026, followed by an international exhibition in the Canary Islands. “In a wine world that is sometimes considered to be complex, volcanic wines offer appealing clarity. They emphasise the supremacy of terroir over grape variety but also tap into powerful, accessible imagery”, stresses Pierre Desprat. Six French wine regions (Alsace, Ardèche, Auvergne, Beaujolais, Languedoc and Provence) produce volcanic wines, which represent 2 % of global vineyard acreage. This may well be a drop in the wine ocean, but the trend is one that could set the world on fire.
Florence Jaroniak © vins volcaniques/Maison Desprat Saint-Verny
Visit these websites to find out more:
www.volcanicwinesinternational.com/szabo
www.dunod.com/vie-pratique/vins-feu-decouverte-terroirs-volcans-celebres